Antarctica photo gallery

Cameras
A DSLR is really a must in Antarctica if you are serious about taking pictures. However, consider bringing a point and shoot camera as well. As it is smaller and more comfortable to carry, you can keep it on you at all times (including when you’d rather not lug around the bulky DSLR) – and you may be able to use it to shoot videos, too.

Lenses
If you can, bring a wide angle lens and a zoom lens which will allow you to capture both immense landscapes and the wildlife. But do think about how you will be changing lenses; if you do this outdoors there is a risk that you will damage your camera due to the cold and damp. Therefore you’ll either need to decide on a lens before leaving the ship, or bring more than one body.



Other equipment
Tripods are a personal choice, as they are heavy and bulky. As the light is bright in the Antarctic summer, you may not need one unless shooting more technical images. A monopod is much easier to carry and can work well on slippery ice and in windy conditions to steady your camera just enough.

When it comes to filters, a UV filter is always handy – especially as it will protect your lens from scratches. A polarising filter will reduce the constant glare from the snow and ice, eliminate the reflections on the water and bring out those deep blues in the icebergs. It’s recommended to put these on your camera once you have left the ship and you camera has cooled down, which will reduce condensation.



You may also want to bring a waterproof case for your camera, for extra protection. If not, a dry bag is essential – you’re sure to get soggy on the Zodiacs at the very least.

Batteries drain at alarming speed in cold weather – bring plenty of spares and keep them inside your parka to stop them running low. Bring lots of SD cards too – no one ever anticipates quite how many thousands of photos they are going to take in Antarctica! A laptop and backup drive will help keep your images safe.

Antarctica may be a blessing when it comes to capturing stunning shots – but it is a curse where sensitive electronic equipment is concerned. You will spend your days moving between the toasty warm environment of the ship – and the cold, damp exterior, and your camera is not going to like it. The tried-and-tested technique is to seal your camera in a large Ziploc bag before you get back on board, expelling as much air as possible. Don’t take the camera out until it has fully warmed up. This will stop condensation forming which can kill the electronics, and be a disaster for your lenses and sensor.

You may have the impression that Antarctica is vast, white and empty – but that’s not always the case, especially around the fringes of the peninsula and on the islands. There’s a lot to be said for a clean background though – so consider this before you press the shutter. Moving round that penguin so that it stands out from the floes – rather than merges into the flock – can make a huge difference.



When it comes to photographing wildlife, one of the best things you can do is go low. Get a seal’s eye view of the world, or make penguins seem more personable, by capturing them on their level. This will also often have the benefit of allowing you to show them against the Antarctic landscape and sky – rather than the patch of ice that immediately surrounds them.

The rule of thirds is not unique to Antarctica – but it’s always worth mentioning as an incredibly simple way to improve your photographs. That means off centre horizons and positioning penguins to the left or right of the frame.



One of the most difficult issues is the white balance – there is a LOT of white for your camera’s light meter to deal with, and auto settings will likely turn it all grey. The simplest thing to do is stop up the exposure levels – anywhere between half a stop and two stops – to compensate. But keep practising and testing the results until you find what works best for your camera. Also – shoot in RAW. That will make any adjustments much easier once you get back home.

Always find a focal point, rather than just shooting an empty landscape. It can be a penguin, a whale’s fluke, a jagged rock, the bow of a ship or an arched iceberg – but make sure there is something for people to look at. This also helps give a sense of scale.

Sort out your settings in advance. There’s nothing more frustrating than missing a humpback breach because you forgot to adjust your shutter speed.



Do consider shooting in black and white – or at least adjusting your photos digitally. Penguins, of course, look superb in monochrome, as can the contract between dark rocks and brilliant snow, or the dark ocean as it froths. For inspiration, check out Sebastião Salgado’s incredible black and white shots of Antarctica.

And finally, but most importantly – put the camera down from time to time. Take the odd shore excursion without packing your camera, or calmly watch the whales from deck without fumbling for your equipment. You may never return to Antarctica, so you want to ensure you really get to see – and experience – it, rather than just watching it all through a viewfinder.

See our wildlife photography expeditions page for details on Antarctica trips with renowned naturalists: Chris Packham and Mark Cawardine!

Photo credits: [Top box: Murray Foubister] [Photographing seals: ravas51] [Feet on ice: Eli Duke] [Dramatic iceberg: Ben Stephenson] [Penguin on nest: nomis-simon] [or penguin hop: SteveD91] [Whale fluke: Christopher Michel] [Tall ship - B&W: Rob Oo] [Back of boat: Aah-Yeah]