Sulawesi travel guide

Our Sulawesi travel guide introduces you to one of Indonesia’s most interesting islands. Its spectacular natural resources are no secret, especially among divers and snorkellers, but what often surprises visitors is the traditional animist culture of Sulawesi that continues to flourish, seemingly unaffected by the passage of time.

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Sulawesi travel guide

Colonised over the years by the Portuguese, the Dutch and the British, Sulawesi is an intriguing cultural mix even before you get to the animist religious traditions that persist in the south. The island is also a legendary destination for diving and snorkelling of course, especially off the volcanic northern peninsula.

Snorkelling safaris and dive trips are frequently combined with nearby Borneo or Raja Ampat. The marine wildlife here in the Coral Triangle is absolutely extraordinary.

Sulawesi is also highly regarded for its coffee, with the most prestigious coming from the Tana Toraja highlands where tribal funerals follow ancient animist traditions. For many visitors, the chance to witness such an event first-hand is a cultural highpoint of their trip. Read our Sulawesi travel guide for more details.

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Sulawesi is…

the centerpiece of the ‘Coral Triangle’, a world class destination for diving and snorkelling.

Sulawesi isn’t…

as developed yet as other parts of Indonesia, and the south of the island remains an intoxicating hotbed of tribal customs.

Things to do in Sulawesi…

Sulawesi is among the best places in Indonesia to explore underwater by scuba diving or snorkelling, and it can easily be combined with Borneo and Raja Ampat. Bunaken National Park is a renowned dive location teeming with marine life such as stingrays, sea turtles and dolphins. The steep walls and occasionally strong currents here mean it’s often perceived as better for intermediate or advanced divers, however. For those who prefer their wildlife watching on dry land, there are the macaques, tarsiers and cuscus of Tangkoko National Park, or the option of bird watching in locations such as Lore Lindu and Bogani Nani Wartabone National Parks. The latter is home to the maleo, a ground-dwelling bird that buries its eggs deep into volcanic soil for incubation. Visiting Sulawesi parks and reserves helps demonstrate their value in tourism, which is vital given that almost all of them are severely threatened by deforestation. It might seem an odd thing to do while on vacation, but Sulawesi, specifically in the Tana Toraja region, is a fantastic place to go to a funeral. Bodies here are often buried in curious hanging graves that are carved into cliffs and watched over by eerie effigies called ‘tau tau’. Funeral rites meanwhile can be lavish affairs, accompanied by colourful ceremonies that involve sometimes pretty gruesome water buffalo sacrifices, feasts and dancing, with visitors welcome to attend.

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Things not to do in Sulawesi…

It would be a crime to miss the street food in Sulawesi. Makassar’s waterfront area is a good place to start, once known as ‘the longest restaurant in the world’ for its vast stretch of food stalls. Not so pleasant are the food markets in the Minhasa region, where you’ll see snake, forest rats and even dogs, often caged in upsetting conditions. Sulawesi’s fruit bats are a favorite, and the population is being decimated. You can read more about our stance in our guide to eating bush meat. Coffee-lovers should avoid drinking drink kopi luwak. There’s no easy way of saying this, but the world’s most expensive coffee is made from beans that have been partially digested and then… pooped out by civets. The prices that kopi luwak fetches in the West leads to many wild civets being kept in captivity, fed unnatural diets and treated appallingly. As you can’t tell whether your cup of joe came from wild or captive civets, better to opt for another brand altogether. Fins are useful when you’re scuba diving or snorkelling especially in strong currents, but can also damage coral if you’re not careful. The dozens of coral species in the waters surrounding Sulawesi are vital for sustaining tropical marine life here. Responsible operators will brief passengers on how to avoid collisions before anyone gets in the water, and you can also help by wearing eco friendly sun cream.