Basque Country travel guide

Euskadi, País Vasco, the Basque Country; few places in Europe are quite as mysterious as this little region in northern Spain. The ancient language, Euskera, has nothing in common with any other European language, and rather than the flamboyant arts of flamenco and bullfighting, the Basque ‘rural sports’ of choice include wood chopping, anvil lifting, churn carrying and bale tossing – a nod to the region’s fishermen and farmers, and responsible for the Basques’ somewhat rugged reputation.
The Basque Country is to Spain what the Scottish Isles are to the UK: wildly charismatic, with a unique language, culture and craggy coastline – and plenty of sheep.
Indeed, it takes a tough mind – and muscles – to take on these furrowed landscapes, dominated by the Atlantic Coast and steep mountain ranges. It took a tough mind, too, to survive the decades of oppression in Franco’s Spain, when the autonomy of this “traitor province” was denied, its language forbidden. But the Basques concealed their cultural secrets between these impenetrable limestone massifs, in gastronomy societies, baserri stone houses and public storytelling and today they proudly display their identity with their characteristic boina berets.

Read on in our Basque Country travel guide.

The Basque Country is...

best explored with a pair of hiking boots , an umbrella in case you need it, and a hungry belly.

The Basque Country isn't...

really Spain. Expect pintxos not tapas, cider not sangria, and the tx and k-punctuated sounds of Euskera.

Things to do in the Basque Country…

The daytrippers and long-weekenders spend their time city hopping, but the only way to get into the heart of Euskadi is to walk. This province is small, but its dramatic coastline, verdant hills and rugged mountains offer plenty of landscapes – with fishing villages, mountain hamlets and cider houses to stop at along the way. Choose a guided, small group tour – or opt for self guided to tailor make your treks. One of the best things about going on a walking vacation here is that you’ll have even more of an appetite for the region’s phenomenal food. Little San Sebastian has a whopping seven Michelin starred restaurants – three of which have three stars. The region is also famous for its gastronomical societies (txokos), where members – traditionally men – come together to cook and share food, often using ingredients they’ve hunted, fished or harvested themselves. This has kept the Basque Country’s unique recipes and traditions alive. Basque architecture is quite unlike anywhere else. Old town centers boast long, lean apartments squished up together, with wooden shutters and balconies painted blue, green or red – the latter traditionally from oxblood, which protected the wood from rot. The distinctive baserris are traditional stone or half timbered buildings – farmsteads, homes or cultural centers, in which the Basque culture language was fostered and fed throughout decades of persecution, through meetings, txokos and song and dance.

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Things not  to do in the Basque Country…

Run with the bulls. Pamplona’s San Fermín may be the Basque Country’s most famous event, but while there are many wonderful, traditional parades and Basque rural sports practised during the weeklong festival, the sad fact is that most tourists come purely to run with the bulls, which are subsequently killed in a bullfight. We don’t support the killing or torture of animals for entertainment, and we certainly don’t recommend putting yourself at risk; anyone considering running should be aware that every year, 200-300 people are injured during San Fermín, and up to 10 people are killed in bull runs across Spain. More than any other region, the Basque Country has a very distinct history and culture from the rest of Spain. The language is unrelated to any other, and was outlawed – as were many Basque traditions – during the Franco dictatorship. Calls for independence have been consistently rejected, and the region suffered for decades due to the terrorist activities of Basque separatist group ETA – now happily in the past. Do research the history of this region to avoid cultural faux pas. Forget your brolly. While the weather here is usually sunny, and autumns especially are lovely, scenery this lush and green does owe plenty to regular rainfall. Pack waterproof gear even in summer, just in case.
Written by Vicki Brown
Photo credits: [Page banner: José Antonio Larrasoaña Zunzarren] [Is/Isn't: Keta] [Things to do: pixelillo]