How to avoid the crowds in Cinque Terre

Overtourism is a growing phenomenon that our own research indicates affects almost 100 destinations around the world so far, but there are few places in Europe where the problem is so clearly visible as Cinque Terre, on Italy’s resplendent Ligurian coast. Around 2.5 million people visit these five tiny villages every year, the majority of whom are day-trippers there for a few hours on a cruise excursion and who typically follow the same well-worn routes. In peak season it’s not unknown for the 100m journey from the train station in one of the villages, Manarola, to the harbour, to take half an hour. Platforms can resemble rush hour on the London Underground, which is leading to safety concerns.

The anchovies caught off Cinque Terre are renowned In Italy – every September Monterosso al Mare holds a festival to celebrate their salty goodness. In peak season, wandering the narrow streets of these beautiful villages, their tiny patches of beach, tunnels, famous viewpoints and public squares, can make visitors themselves feel a little like anchovies stuffed in a tin. And of course the irony is most people spend just a short time in the villages, and will perhaps buy a meal, a drink, a couple of postcards or fridge magnets, doing very little to support the actual economy of these communities. This level of overcrowding tarnishes everyone’s experience of Cinque Terre, visitors and locals alike. Here’s how to avoid the worst of it.

Cinque Terre tends to be busiest in May, June and September, with July and August not far behind. Italian public vacations are also immensely popular times with people flocking in from Florence, Genoa and Pisa. The quietest times to visit are in the shoulder season, late April, late October though the Easter and October half term vacations are popular with families. Don’t leave it too late though. Winter in Cinque Terre isn’t much fun: the weather is unpredictable (though usually damp) and heavy rain can cause landslips on the steep hillsides, closing off some walking trails. Public transport timetables are cut back so you have fewer options on trains and ferries, however those services still operating will be much quieter. And of course this being such a tourism-focused destination that during the off season many accommodations, restaurants, cafes and shops simply lower the shutters, so what you gain in personal space you lose in ambience.

There are several ways to get from village to village but very few people choose to go by car as parking spaces are rare as hens’ teeth. If you have the time, then the best option is definitely to walk, however many people will get around either by train or by passenger ferry (which doesn’t stop at Corniglia as the village has no harbour). The ferries tend to be not quite as busy as the trains, however those with a bit more money to spend will sometimes hire local fishermen to take them around in their boats. As well as giving you more space and flexibility, this is also a great way to put a little more money into the Cinque Terre community, much of which is dependent on seasonal tourism.