Cycling Hadrian’s Wall

Hadrian’s Cycleway is a network of paths that roughly follows the route of Hadrian’s Wall for 277km from Ravenglass in the Lake District to Tynemouth and South Shields in the east.

It’s an exciting chance to cross the north of England by bike, following a mix of quiet, well-maintained country roads and cycle paths through landscapes that range from sandy coastal estuaries and rolling moorlands to Newcastle’s riverside path. And, of course, the remains of Hadrian’s Wall stitch the whole cycle route together.

A local guide leads our small group vacations along Hadrian’s Cycleway. They’ll sort out luggage transfers and are an excellent font of stories and pub lunch recommendations. They’ll also point out where to refuel on tea, cake or a pint, and suggest the best market towns for stocking up on local specialities like nettle cheese (tastier than it sounds), cinder toffee, ruby port and oatcakes.

Maps and route notes are provided, so you can choose to race ahead or stay with the group. Everyone is welcome to cycle at their own pace and stop off wherever they fancy. Weary legs will be rested at small, locally run guest houses and hotels, and you don’t have to worry about transport. There’ll be a support vehicle on hand, plus both ends of the route are on the train line, making this a largely car-free – and care-free – foray.

Riding through history: from Roman rulers to the big 19-00

While cycling Hadrian’s Wall, you’ll be treated to an immersive, entertaining history lesson of Britain. After all, Hadrian’s Wall was a bustling military base of forts, houses, taverns and barracks for about 300 years.

The Roman army started building the wall in AD 122, as they pushed north from southern England. It was all at the behest of Hadrian, an emperor keen to defend against the tribes of unconquered Caledonia (modern-day Scotland), control the movement of goods and people, and show grumbling Britons that the Romans were there to stay.

What originally started as a mission to link up existing forts grew into the most heavily fortified Roman structure in the world, with 5m-tall walls, spiked ditches, forts and towers, plus thousands of troops posted along the route.

Hadrian’s Wall fell into disuse when the Romans retreated in the 5th century, which meant all those quarried and cut bricks were up for grabs. And grabbed they were. Much of the material became what archaeologists call spolia – as in, spoils of war – and were used to build everything from the cottages and farm walls to the vast abbeys that you’ll see while breezing through on your bike.

Many landmarks along Hadrian’s Cycleway come for free – freewheeling through the Pennines, for instance, or wandering around grand cathedrals, and the beaches and nature reserves of the Solway Coast. The Roman forts and museums, however, often have entry charges not included in the price of the vacation – but it’s well paying for the diversion. You’ll get behind-the-scenes insights into ongoing archaeological digs, the chance to wander around parts of the wall fenced off for conservation, seasonal exhibitions, and – in the case of places like Birdoswald – a café with Roman burgers on the menu. Plus, your pennies go towards the conservation and preservation of Hadrian’s Wall.