Responsible tourism in Bali

As with many tropical locations, parts of Bali have become something of a victim of their own success. Quiet, peaceful beaches have turned into temples to merchandise and big business. Peaceful and unassuming local people have found their cultural identity under threat, with poverty rife in rural communities far from the financial gain of tourism. But don't for one minute think that Bali has succumbed to its fate. Explore away from the brash, built up resorts down south and you'll still find untouched virgin beaches, thriving fishing villages and indigenous communities living in much the same way as they always have. Protected areas, such as Bali Barat National Park, feature a wide range of land and marine environments to sustain a hugely diverse range of flora and fauna to offer responsible travelers a true taste of Bali, the way nature intended. Read on to find out more about Bali, warts and all, as we examine the issues facing the island and what you can do to help.

Soft white sand, laid back lifestyles and Hindu temples always made Bali attractive for cultural travelers; however, the opening of Ngurah Rai International Airport in the 1970s ensured the island became much more accessible, especially for those just a short flight away in Australia. Although many of the Aussies heading to Bali back in the 70s and early 80s were solely interested in consistent waves and affordable digs, the more tourists who came to see what the fuss was all about, the more the money men capitalised on the island’s exotic charms. The coastal suburbs around Denpasar, including Sanur, Kuta and Nusa Dua, all attracted real estate developers, fast-food chains and all-inclusive package vacationmakers with little or no intervention from, at best, a weak government, at worse, a completely corrupt bunch of incompetents. Ineffectual leaders still exist today, a prime example being the proposed Benoa Bay development which, if pushed forward, plans to bring increased numbers of tourists to the already over congested southern Bali in the form of shopping districts, luxury accommodation and a marina, within an area that’s currently underwater. This proposed reclamation project threatens not only the marine ecology and surrounding coastline but also several sacred underwater Hindu sites. Not only does Bali’s government need to get its act together in terms of protecting the natural environment and cultural sites of the south, it needs to respect the rights of local people ahead of international corporations before it edges ever closer to the mass tourism volcanic rim of no return.



What you can do
Don’t treat Bali as just another homogenised hot spot and stay in high rise hotels where English is the only language you’ll hear all vacation and all inclusive packages don’t require any traveling other than from the pool and back. Go and explore; experience Bali on two wheels through rice terraces or in remote mountain villages, like Tenganan and Trunyan where Bali Aga traditions exist alongside incredible volcanic scenery. Discover the intricacy of ikat textile design and what it means to be invited in for coffee by someone who welcomes you with nods, smiles and twinkling eyes.

It’s estimated that almost 200,000 people on Bali are living in poverty*, especially within the remote, rural northeast, and through a combination of desperation and naivety, the vast majority of young men and women within Bali’s sex trade will have been put there by members of their own family.** Despite the obvious moral and religious contradictions, sex is openly for sale in Bali with busy tourist areas in Kuta, Seminyak and Sanur attracting kids to the bright lights like moths to flames, with the all powerful western dollar often seen as the only means of escaping an endless cycle of destitution. Kids will start off begging or selling trinkets by the side of the road before being drawn into a world where accepting money or anything else of value for sexual abuse isn’t considered illegal, even for children, especially if no complaints have been made by the victim. The cycle continues once children get too old to beg or charm – because they’re no longer ‘cute enough’ - with ‘massage parlors’, brothels and red light districts beckoning teens deeper into a murky underworld with the threat of HIV/AIDS an ever-darkening shadow hanging over the beaches of Bali.



What you can do
If you see kids begging: please don’t give them any money, don’t buy them anything and don’t pay for any 'impromptu' dance performances or shows. By giving begging children money you may well be lining the pockets of threatening adults and perpetuating the poverty trap that is basically akin to slavery. There are several charitable NGOs that have been set up to help kids get off the streets. Soul Surf Project is one such non-profit making organisation that aims to break Bali’s cycle of street kids and sex tourism, and if you’re interested in helping, please make a donation or find out how you can get involved before, during or after your visit to Bali.

Sources: *The Bali Times; **The International Labour Organization

For more information on how to help kids in Bali, please read these ChildSafe tips before you go.

• Although Bali is slightly less conservative when compared to the rest of Indonesia it's still important to respect local traditions and err on the side of caution in the way you dress, particularly if you're visiting a Hindu temple or religious ceremony. Avoid wearing vest tops or shorts when visiting a temple and although you can sometimes rent or buy a quick cover up before entering a temple it's much better to come prepared with your own traditional Balinese sarong or scarf.
• When taking photographs always ask permission first, and respect notices asking you not to photograph in temples, museums or art galleries.
• If you want to bring someone's attention to something then use your whole hand, palm side up, rather than pointing with your index finger. This is considered polite in Bali and a less aggressive form of indicating what you'd like without speaking. Use your right hand to shake hands and to eat, and use both hands when offering a gift as this is considered a compliment.
• Avoid placing your hands on someone's head, including children, as Balinese consider the head as a sacred place containing the soul, not to be touched by other people.
• When meeting local people they may come across as quite direct in terms of what they ask you. Questions about your marital status, your work and where you're staying or going on the island will all be deemed as perfectly normal questions so don't feel too affronted, just go with the flow.
• Public displays of affection are not the done thing in Bali, including holding hands, hugging and kissing. However, it's perfectly normal for same sex friends to be quite tactile and you might find local Balinese are comfortable touching you as they speak; it's just their way of being friendly.
• Even in the most demanding of situations Balinese will smile to avoid escalating confrontation. This is yet another example of the peaceful nature of life on the island where people would much prefer to nod, smile and welcome you into their home rather than be gloomy and guarded.
• When at the beach make sure you take all your rubbish away and use any recycling facilities available or ask your accommodation or tour guide where you can find a bin.

Photo credits: [Real estate - Benoa Bay: Merbabu] [Street kids: Selamat Made] [Civet cat: Stefan Magdalinski] [Dolphins: Vladimir E]