Refreshingly for Spain, the most hyped element of Catalonia’s tourist development is the lack of it. Tiny enclaves – Salou, Port Aventura, downtown Barcelona – buck the trend, but these are very much exceptions in this wild, largely undiscovered region. Barcelona aside, few visitors to Spain come to Catalonia. And even fewer visitors to Catalonia stray from the coast – into the mountains, foothills, forests or medieval towns. This autonomous region has a fiercely strong sense of identity, and the fact that this has not been watered down with Irish pubs, fish and chip shops and English-speaking resorts makes the Catalan character stronger still.

Tourism here revolves around the great outdoors – explored on foot, bicycle or horseback, meaning that the (often small, family run) tour companies have a vested interest in protecting these precious landscapes. For them, local residents and the handful of tourists, the forests, the mountains and the rugged coast are far more valuable intact.

No matter how little you know about Catalan politics, you will instantly be aware that this region is not “Spain” as you know it. The striped Catalan flag flies proud across every skyline, the strangely accented letters bear no resemblance to Castilian Spanish, and locals speak about what happens “in Spain” as if it were across a distant national border.

Catalonia has been an autonomous region since 1978, but the unashamed promotion of its language, cuisine and traditions are a fierce response to their prohibition during the 39-year Franco dictatorship. All public sector workers, including teachers and doctors, are legally required to use Catalan alongside Spanish, and residents are keen to enlighten visitors on their desire for full independence, which has only increased since Spain’s financial crisis kicked in. As the richest region in Spain, the economic arguments are as strong as the cultural ones. The animosity towards the rest of Spain can seem aggressive at times, and visitors should be sensitive when getting involved in conversations about politics – which they inevitably will. Two generations of Catalans were denied their identity, and there is demand for a referendum, although Madrid has warned that a yes vote will not be recognised.

 

What you can do
We always recommend sampling national dishes and immersing yourself in the country you are in, but in Catalonia we’d go a step further and advise visitors to celebrate the best of the region. Forget bullfighting, flamenco and Rioja; go and watch a castells human tower, watch sardanas being danced at any village festival, and sip local wines for a true Catalan experience. Far from just flattering your hosts, you’ll discover a whole new gastronomy and culture.

In 2010, the Catalonian parliament banned bullfighting, to the delight of animal rights groups. This caused controversy in the rest of the country, and outside Catalonia there is talk of revoking the ban as bullfighting is considered important cultural heritage.

Opponents of the ban claim it is a political, rather than an ethical, statement; made by Catalonia to distance itself further from the rest of Spain. This suggestion is, arguably, bolstered by the continuation of traditions such as running with the bulls, known as correbou. The bulls are not killed or corralled, but it is likely that the activity causes distress. This is worsened if the festivity is a night-time bou embolat – or ‘fire bull’ – where the bull has flammable balls fixed to its horns. The balls are set alight and the bull is released to run into the crowd. Sometimes fireworks are also attached.

What you can do
At Responsible Travel, we don’t recommend getting involved with any bull running activities, due to animal welfare – as well as your own safety. However, the bullfighting ban is another subject which is inextricably tied in with the Catalan identity, and discussing the ins and outs and political implications of it might arouse strong feelings linked to the defence of Catalan culture and possibly cause offence, so do so with an open mind and be prepared to listen to alternative points of view.