French Alps travel guide

Everyone should have that experience just once. Arriving into the French Alps by night, and then opening the curtains in the morning to see these beauteous behemoths staring at you. You hardly know whether to scream in shock or cry with joy. Mont Blanc is the biggest tear jerker of all and, of course, the highest peak at 4,810m, which you can summit or circumnavigate. But don’t let ‘La Dame Blanche’ as the French call her, steal the alpine limelight.
The French alps always feel like pure therapy. They should be available on prescription and called 'medicine sans frontieres'.
There are many other equally stunning regions. For southern sun in summer but plenty of snow in winter, the Mercantour NP in the Alpes Maritimes has an Italian feel to it. The Haute Savoie has Lake Annecy as the jewel in its crown, and the Ecrins National Park is a vast, underrated unknown. This French Alps travel guide is our way of opening those curtains and giving you a quick peak of France’s most famous tours de force.

The French Alps are...

so much more than Mont Blanc and Meribel. They cover 210,000km². Just in case you thought they might be crowded.

The French Alps aren't...

just for winter. When the snow melts, that’s when the real adventures begin. Riding and rafting, cycling and canyoning.

Things to do in the French Alps...

With myriad waymarked ways, from the Tour de Mont Blanc to the Grandes Randonnées (GR) long distance trails, hiking in the French Alps is some of the best in the world. The network, which often follows ancient shepherd or hunting tracks, makes self-guided walking vacations a great option along, for example, the GR50 and GR54 in the Écrins NP, or the GR52 in the Mercantour. You can even take a donkey to carry your bags. There is plenty of guided walking in the higher peaks, such as Haute Savoie or Mont Blanc, providing safety in the mountains plus local expertise. Conquering the cols by bike is also popular, following in the imaginary slipstream of Tour de France heroes. Winter vacations in the French Alps allow you to steer clear of the piste posse, and traverse the wonderland in more tranquil ways. Such as snowshoeing or ski touring, both sumptuously slow-snow travel, pondering the pistes rather than bashing them. Follow sections of the Tour de Mont Blanc in the snow, or explore the Écrins NP where expert High Mountain Guides help you explore untrodden tracks up to heights such as the Plateau of La Coche, around frozen lakes and through the St Leger Les Melezes larch forest. When the snows melt, the Alps become a proverbial playground for all outdoor lovers, with activity vacations to suit all ages and abilities in Chamomix, the Écrins NP where you can raft the Durance River or climb and canyon in the vertiginous Valgaudemar Valley.

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Things not to do in the French Alps...

Don’t ignore mountain safety and, ideally, go with an internationally qualified mountain leader, particularly at higher levels. The UIMLA International Mountain Leader and the IFMGA Mountain Guide are the only internationally recognised qualifications in the mountains worldwide. Safe walking boots, the right amount of layers, waterproofs, water and an emergency kit are key. And be avalanche aware, even as late as May.
Don’t be blasé about summiting Mont Blanc. It is a serious challenge, and one to be done in the hands of experts, with top equipment and plenty of planning. Avoid the charity climbs which race to the top and back down again, rarely leave money in the local economy and are also responsible for a lot of waste left on the mountain.
Don’t bring your car if you can avoid it. The mountains can get very congested and there is a superb rail network in France, with many tour operators organising collections from railway stations. When you hit the hills, either on foot or bike, stay on the allocated paths as much as you can to minimise your impact on habitats and ecosystems. And snow-lovers can make use of the excellent ski train service that Eurostar operates between London and Moûtiers, Aime-la-Plagne and Bourg-St-Maurice.
Written by Catherine Mack
Photo credits: [Page banner: Jerome Bon] [Tour de Mont Blanc: Heather Cowper] [Things to do: Doggettx]