Cycling in Peneda-Gerês National Park

Often shortened to simply Gerês, the Peneda-Gerês National Park is in fact Portugal’s only national park. But, when they’re as beautiful as Gerês, one might argue who needs more? The park is situated in the far northwest of Portugal just above Porto, in the historic Minho and Trás-os-Montes regions close to the border with Spain. Here, you’ll find glorious rural scenery and some of the oldest towns and villages in the country, including Sistelo, Soajo, Ermelo and Ponte de Lima, where the kingdom of Portugal had its origins.

The landscapes of Gerês are just staggeringly lovely and yes, I speak as someone that has vacationed there several times in the past and loved every minute of it, so I’m not exactly unbiased, but the scenery here is honestly a jawdropper. Roe deer, Minho horse and Iberian wolves roam the lush and green hillsides that are dotted with gushing waterfalls, while golden eagles soar above. As a cycling destination you could hardly ask for better.

It tends to be a lot cooler and rainier here than elsewhere in Portugal, hence the bold colours of the vegetation. If you normally associate Portugal with the sunshine and heat of the Algarve, Gerês is something entirely different. All around there are ancient communities, with cottages built of granite and where thinning populations carry on much as they have done for centuries. While cycling slowly around them you may encounter shepherds guiding their flocks through alleyways, and old ladies dressed in black, laden with packs of sticks or herding a couple of cows.

One of Portugal’s oldest and most charming towns, Ponte de Lima is most famous for its Roman bridge, built in 1AD. Small enough to see in a few hours, pretty enough to want to stay much longer, the riverside town is lined with historic architecture, including plazas and religious buildings, and is brightened up in the summer months by the International Garden Festival.

Some cycling vacations in Peneda-Gerês National Park culminate with a day in Porto; you transfer by minibus. This is Portugal’s second city, known for its slightly offbeat culture and home to the famous port wine. The colourful riverside architecture, old merchants’ houses and wine cellars are lovely to explore by bike.

“We both loved discovering this region that was new to us and having a brilliant host who assisted us in many ways, guided us to lovely places and provided so so much information on the history, geography and culture of this part of Northern Portugal. It is necessary to be reasonably fit for the cycling and walking. Bring cycling shorts! Ensure that all maps provided are carefully studied and understood as it is possible to go off track. Be sure that you enjoy quietness and tranquility.” – Anne Fegan on a family cycling vacation in Portugal