Albanian food & drink

“If I had to sum up Albanian cuisine in three words, they would be authentic, generous and Mediterranean,” says Ylli.

Food in Albania features plenty of citrus, olives and figs, and liberal dashes of olive oil for that sun-splashed Mediterranean feel. But there are Balkan influences, too, particularly in mountainous areas, such as meaty goulashes, and ajvar, a relish made from roasted bell peppers.

You’ll also find Turkish elements in Albanian cuisine, like kebabs, baklava and filo pastries and pies, as both countries were once part of the Ottoman Empire, and of course there are many similarities with the cuisine of neighbouring Greece. There are even some historic pasta dishes, such as pastice which resembles lasagna, that may remind you of Italy, just 70km across the Strait of Otranto.

Albanian food is known for seasonality and being produced locally. "It's fresh, it's interesting, it's delicious, it's very keenly priced. There's no downside, frankly,” says Emma.

You can roughly distinguish between Albanian cuisine in the mountains and rural areas where hearty meals packed with meat and vegetables dominate, and on the coast where fish and seafood dishes – grilled, baked and fried – are naturally the order of the day. Our traveler Rebecca Walker-Buckton loved dropping into restaurants where “the menu was 'whatever the owner caught when fishing that morning.’”

Simple casseroles and pies with just a few ingredients are popular, not going too heavy on herbs and spices. There is a lot of cheese – in some restaurants you may find the menu has its own cheese section.

Lunch is the main meal in Albania, with the evening meal typically quite light. Expect lots of salads and mezzes, with large portions often served on platters – family-style eating is a big part of Albanian food culture.

That our food vacations in Albania even have a cuisine worth exploring is something to celebrate.

The Communist dictator Enver Hoxha ruled Albania for four decades from 1944. As the years went by the regime became ever more paranoid and extreme until Albania was almost entirely politically isolated. One way that the population was kept under control was by the collectivisation of food. Dishes with religious connotations were banned under Hoxha’s secular demands. Cookbooks were burned and individual flair in cuisine, seen as bourgeois, was discouraged.

As a result of all this, Albanian food and drink lost much of their regional diversity. Many traditional recipes were lost, while others survived only by being passed down through family members, as they couldn’t be cooked in restaurants. By the 1970s Albania suffered widespread shortages and eventually came close to famine. Rationing was brought in which affected the consumption of dairy and meat, and most Albanians endured a very limited diet. With food scarce, there was a need to be resourceful with ingredients, many Albanian dishes today are simple for that reason.

Today, Albanian cuisine is dynamic and diverse. There are even restaurants that specialise in bringing old recipes like halva or tave krapi (baked carp casserole) back to life, with young chefs learning from older generations who still remember them.

Albanian food prices are generally quite low. You can expect to pay around €30-40 for a good, traditional Albanian meal for two (the official currency is the Albanian lek, but euros are widely accepted in tourist areas). A paper plate of qofte meatballs at a street food stall might set you back five euros, while a slice of byrek (a pastry or pie) might be as little as €1 in some places.

Food in Albania can be meat-heavy but there are plenty of dishes suitable for vegetarian and vegan travelers. Stuffed peppers and aubergines are a staple of local cuisine in Albania, as are vegetable pies and salads. It’s important to remember that even in more touristy parts of the country such as the Albanian Riviera the menus rarely list all ingredients. If in doubt, check with your waiter or guide.