Crete travel guide

There is a very common suffix on Cretan surnames – that of ‘akis’. It goes back to the island’s 250 year old Turkish occupation when local people were forced to add ‘akis’, meaning ‘little’, to the end of their names. To make them feel small. Wrong. There is nothing small about Cretans, nor their spectacular island where there are no less than five mountain ranges. The most famous is the White Mountains where a gamut of gorges and gushing rivers never fails to astound those who thought Crete was just about beaches.
Crete is a land where you can embark on a different journey every day, through mountains, ancient ruins, open plains and white, sandy beaches. No wonder it's part of Homer's Odyssey.
Crete is Greece’s largest island and home to Europe’s longest gorge. Plus the people are a towering strength when it comes to creating tourism that’s worlds apart from the resort ravages it has become known for. Far from diminutive, Cretans are in fact people to look up to. And this Crete travel guide is an introduction to many of its highpoints.

Crete is...

like Brittany to France, Cornwall to the UK, Catalonia to Spain: a whole other world to the rest of Greece. Culturally, naturally, historically. And beautifully.

Crete isn't...

dominated by resorts with ‘hidden beauties’ on the side. Its mountains, gorges and all round gorgeousness far upstage the pockets of overdeveloped debacles.

Things to do in Crete…

Pack your walking pole, sturdy boots and a hydration pack, because if you are a keen hiker there are superb walking trails. The gorges of the White Mountains, such as Samaria and Imbros are spectacular but there are over 50 such beauties, so seek out local advice for some of the prettiest perambulations you could hope for. The food is fantastically traditional in Crete, yet the wine is fast catching up with worldwide vintners’ values. It seems as if every mountain village has its own cheese; the local Kaltsounia pies, for example, are packed with myzithra soft whey cheese. Horta, a spinach-type grass growing all over the island, is another ingredient used in this and other meals, with okra and artichoke being popular too. For carnivores, there is serious lamb to be had, and with over 30 wineries, there is no shortage of fine accompaniments. Water is a big feature on Cretan vacations. You can go adventurous and opt for canyoning, coasteering, kayaking, mellow out on a sailing trip around the island or just pack your swimsuit in your backpack and enjoy one of over a 100 Blue Flag beaches. History buffs will be buzzing on Crete, with ancient sites just about everywhere. As well as the famous ruins at Knossos and Aptera, check out the 14th century coastal fort at Frangocastello, the former Turkish fort and then leper colony on Spinalonga Island, and the Venetian architecture in Chania. There are also myriad monasteries and secret caves. Just ask a local for the best ones.

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Things not to do in Crete…

Do the all inclusive resort thing. There is so much fine local tourism in Crete and you really do want to immerse yourself in the mountains and wildlife if possible, not the concrete jungles. In The Odyssey, Homer wrote, “Out in the dark blue sea there lies an island called Crete, a rich and lovely land, washed by the waves on every side, densely peopled and boasting 90 cities”. We want it to stay rich and lovely, but just not enter another era of 90 concrete cities. Underestimate the heat and mountain terrain when hiking. The gorges may go downhill, but they are rocky and can be sharp underfoot, so have good boots, a walking pole and two pairs of socks to protect feet from sharp stones. You can go for a long time without water stops, so come prepared and always tell someone where you are going. Buy lots of bottled water. Tap water is fine in most places so bring your own bottles and keep filling them up. Fall for empty beach images of some of the tourist favorites such as Balos and Elafonisi. They are packed with coaches in summer, especially from cruise ships and resorts. And don’t start us on cruise ship tourism. It is a feature of Crete and if you want to avoid the crowds disembarking, check out cruise ships dates in advance. Or just go in spring and autumn, when you will have pure and utter beach bliss.
Written by Catherine Mack
Photo credits: [Page banner: Oliver Clarke] [Is/Isn't: Getty Images / Unsplash+] [Things to see and do: Getty Images / Unsplash+]