Walking the Dalmatian Coast

In the spring, on Croatia’s Dalmatian Coast, butterflies follow you through fields of wildflowers. In the summer there are plenty of shady spots for an afternoon picnic, and in the autumn the sea is wonderfully warm, perfect for a late-afternoon dip.

The Dalmatian Coast is a narrow strip of land stretching from the island of Rab in the north of the country to the Bay of Kotor in the south, via Dubrovnik and Split. There are almost 80 islands off the coast, among them Hvar, Korcula, Brac and Mljet, that are easily accessible by public ferries. Here, you’re never far from a view of the sea, a secluded beach, or a peaceful picnic spot.

Soaking up the coast’s balmy Mediterranean climate you will of course spend time in the tourist-thronged confines of Dubrovnik and island ports. But our walking vacations here can also help you leave them behind, taking you through olive groves and lavender distilleries, oyster farms and vineyards, and the hazy agricultural landscapes of the Konavle countryside dotted with old villages and Roman ruins. Sure, you’ll frequently bump into other walkers, but you won’t literally be bumping into people, as you can’t avoid while sightseeing in Dubrovnik.

And while you might have less choice over where to eat in the countryside than you would if you stayed in the cities, you certainly won’t go hungry, with plenty of konobas to stop at along the way. These small, often family-run restaurants typically offer a short menu where the daily specials lean heavily on fresh, local produce. When I contact Dalibor Rudan, the founder of our partner Fiore Tours, to talk about the vacations he organises for us on the Dalmatian Coast, he’s busy at the height of peak season. Then I ask him for a few examples of the meals people are likely to enjoy while walking… and he takes the time to give me a whole list. 101 reasons to walk in Dalmatia, and all of them delicious.

“You will see crni rizot (black risotto) made with squid ink on the menu of every seafood restaurant along the coast,” says Dalibor. Brudet, a seafood stew, is common too: “Every family has their own way of making it.” Gregada is a powerfully flavoured fish stew made with salted anchovies, garlic and capers, especially popular on the central Dalmatian islands such as Hvar. “And all over the Dalmatian Coast you can taste a Croatian classic, which is grilled fish with blitva (Swiss chard). Dalmatian people eat so much chard that sometimes they are called blitvari.” Then there is pasticada, perhaps the most famous Croatian dish – beef marinated in vinegar overnight and then braised for hours with red wine and served with homemade gnocchi.

Our tailor made, self-guided vacations are usually around a week-long. You can add a day in here or there if you want to break up the walking or spend a little more time getting to know somewhere.

Your hotels will be locally owned wherever possible, and you’ll stay in towns where there will be many options for dinner. Staying and eating local ensures that as much money as possible from your vacation stays in the local economy, the antithesis of the massive cruise ships that you’ll often see anchored in places like Dubrovnik and the Bay of Kotor.

Our vacations aren’t very demanding physically, and regular walkers shouldn’t have much difficulty with daily distances up to around 16km per day, with some gentle ascents and descents involved. You’ll walk with just a daypack – luggage can be reliably transferred between hotels ahead of you.

You can walk the Dalmatian Coast between April and early November. The weather is delightfully and reliably warm, sunny and dry from June to September. In early spring and late autumn you may encounter a bit of rain, but the temperature remains pleasantly mild, and hotels and restaurants benefit from some out-of-season income too.