Let local guides introduce you to the regional specificities, and perhaps their own personal histories, too – as you get acquainted with the lesser-known but no less interesting side of Europe.
As sun sets on the botanical gardens in Balchik, on Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast, other tourists depart, leaving you to wander the grounds alone. You’re staying in them: in the summer residence of Queen Marie, the English wife of King Ferdinand of Romania. It’s a fitting end to our
eastern Europe tour of Romania, Bulgaria and Serbia: looking out towards Asia, in a residence built by a Romanian for his English wife, in a seaside resort that was under Byzantine, then Ottoman rule, before a 20
th century spent switching hands between Bulgaria and Romania.
When you tour Europe you get used to high-density history, but this faded grandeur, accessed so inexpensively, feels particularly eastern.
The most visited countries in the world, France and Spain, and the most visited sites in Europe: the Louvre, the Vatican, are all in the west. Mass tourism has been in place in western Europe since the 1960s – in fact, many of its countries have welcomed tourism to the point of saturation.
Yet, as our tours through eastern Europe show, there is another side to the continent. Europe, more so than any other continent, sits with a threshold to its east; it’s bunked up against the largest country in the world – Russia, and at one end of a Silk Road that goes all the way to China. To go east – through Ottoman strongholds and Russian-speaking villages – is to start to see Europe as a peninsula to Asia.
Traditional definitions of Europe put its eastern border at the Urals, a mountain range over 1,000km east of Moscow – making what many people consider the east actually closer to central Europe. To some, the term is pejorative. And 2020s geopolitics placed many of the largest countries in eastern Europe – Belarus, Russia, Ukraine – out of bounds.
In this part of Europe there are nations that are newer to the European Union and nations newer to nationhood, countries that made up the former Soviet Union and lay behind the Iron Curtain, countries that made up the former Yugoslavia, nations, like Romania, that have emerged from dictatorships and nations that international visitors remember principally from news headlines, rather than tourism brochures.