Somaliland travel guide

Rarely visited and widely misunderstood, the Republic of Somaliland is not yet recognised as an independent country by the rest of the world. As such, it’s held back by the reputation of its cousin Somalia, a place troubled by violence and unrest and a tourism no-go zone for the last two decades. Our Somaliland travel guide explains why the two places shouldn’t be confused, and details the unexpected delights and highlights of this small, fledgling country.

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Somaliland travel guide

Two things to know about Somaliland: it’s not Somalia and it doesn’t, officially, exist. While the larger Somalia has been a hot mess of violence and terrorism for the last two decades, Somaliland has been going about its business as an ordered and lawful society, keen to be acknowledged on the world stage. The fact that the world persists in lumping it in with Somalia and won’t recognise it as an independent state does nothing to hamper the spirit of its people, who are famously friendly, exuberant and keen to welcome visitors.

Since the civil war with Somalia, the Republic of Somaliland has enjoyed 20 years of de facto independence and has its own currency and government.

Tourism still barely exists here – more people travel to Antarctica each year than to Somaliland – but anyone adventurous enough to cross its borders will discover its nomadic heritage and long history of trade, its exciting modern capital Hargeisa, the ancient port of Berbera, desert communities, empty beaches, beautifully preserved rock art and a surprising amount of wildlife. Pretty impressive going for a country which isn’t even a country.

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Somaliland is…

full of delights and surprises, from its exquisite rock art to its hospitable people.

Somaliland isn’t…

Somalia. It’s a self-declared independent state, not yet recognised by the rest of the world.

Things to do in Somaliland…

Join a small group or tailor made tour. There’s virtually no tourism in Somaliland and traveling independently is almost impossible. Joining an organised trip is essential, and will include accommodation, a knowledgeable guide who can act as interpreter and a vehicle with a driver who can find remote sites. You will also be accompanied by a so-called Special Protection Unit form the Somaliland police, although according to Jim O’Brien, owner of specialist travel company Native Eye, who knows Somaliland, “this normally consists of an old guy with a rusty rifle…” Resourceful, proud and determined, the people of Somaliland make a visit here truly memorable, so make sure you spend time with them. Despite living in a tough part of the world, with a harsh, dry climate, in a country that is held back from international recognition by an undeserved association with Somalia, the people of Somaliland are friendly, exuberant and legendary for their hospitality. Combine with other countries. Somaliland sits within the Horn of Africa, with Djibouti, Ethiopia and Eritrea. If you’ve made it here – which very few people do – it makes sense to combine Somaliland with its neighbours. Tours of two weeks will introduce you to the capital city and spectacular landscapes of Djibouti; to the hot springs, crater lakes, salt mines and Afar people of Ethiopia’s Danakil Depression; and to the cave art and historic coast of Somaliland.

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Things not to do in Somaliland…

Confuse Somaliland with Somalia – they are not the same. Somaliland is an independent state, with its own government, army and currency. Despite 20 years of de facto independence, it is still not recognised by the rest of the world, and is frequently lumped in with travel advice applying to its troubled, chaotic neighbour Somalia. This can make it seem like a no-go area, but it’s not, and a specialist travel company with a good local team can operate tours safely in this region. Wear revealing clothes. Islam is the state religion of Somaliland and Sharia law is in place. Although it’s not compulsory for women to cover their heads, it will cause offence if they don’t, with local people too polite to speak out. It’s important to cover arms and legs, too, with shorts for men frowned upon. As you’d expect from a Muslim country, alcohol is not available and it’s illegal to bring it in. Forget to pack a sense of adventure. Somaliland rewards the intrepid traveler with ancient cave art, historic ports, lush mountains and a thriving capital. Western culture has yet to make any impression and there is almost no tourist industry, so don’t expect slick service, but you can rely on a warm welcome from its proud, resourceful people.

Somaliland travel guide