Yunnan travel guide

Vibrant nature, snowbound peaks extending towards Tibet, bygone trading routes, towns unchanged for centuries; there is nothing Han Chinese about Yunnan: a standalone province with a standalone personality. As you climb ever higher along the snaking mountain roads, away from Lijiang’s cobblestone streets and towards Shangri-La, you enter an area that was once part of Tibet – from the fluttering prayer flags, to simple whitewashed housing, Tibetan influence is clear and the spirituality, unmistakable.
A fascinating blend of 28 ethnic groups and a dramatic landscape that changes in every direction you face are just two of the factors that set Yunnan apart from the rest of China.
An unparalleled province in which to stroll, hike or cycle, the vista changes with every twist and turn. One afternoon you can explore a valley bathed in golden light; the next an alpine forest bursting with technicolour flowers. Tiger Leaping Gorge is a wild, rushing canyon and a spectacular hiking trail, and then there are rural villages whose inhabitants abide by ancient ways of life. 21st century development has of course begun to rear its head, which may well bring benefits to isolated communities, but if you’re thinking of visiting Yunnan, go now, while priceless isolation remains.
Find out how, with our Yunnan travel guide.

Things to do in Yunnan…

See a very different side of China. Regardless of its unique geography, Yunnan has always been very separate from the rest of China in personality too, not least because of the 28 ethnic groups that live here, each with their own language, gastronomy and beliefs. Though it all gels together under a palpable sense of custom and calm, a visit to Yunnan is very much about exploring the intriguing culture and customs that pervade it. Explore your spiritual side. Being in such close proximity to Tibet, and with many ethnic groups that still live very traditional lives, it’s no surprise that Yunnan has more than a hint of spirituality and religion flowing through it. The landscape is peppered with pagodas, temples and monasteries; in many of them you can stroll around the grounds, watching the monks go about their daily business. Mix hiking with history. Every part of Yunnan has a story to tell. Visit Tea Horse Road, an old trading route along the Silk Road where tea growers and horse traders once met; explore Bai culture in Dali where whitewashed houses have flower-painted borders; or get lost in the mysticism of Shangri-La where Tibetans sip yak butter tea and the crisp air swirls with the scent of wood smoke – you cannot fail to be swept up in the traditional way of life. Ask questions and show an interest – you will learn far more than you thought you would.

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Things not to do in Yunnan…

Live for the party. This is Yunnan, not Beijing; there are no bright lights and big city. The beauty of the province is its rural, simple way of life and quiet, contemplative nature. Which isn’t to say the locals don’t know how to have fun. They do. It’s just that their idea of fun is less about late night drinking and more about folk festivals of myths, singing, dance and storytelling, of which there are more than 400 celebrated throughout the year.
Forget your hiking boots. Going to Yunnan and not walking would be up there with going to Xi’an and giving the Terracotta Warriors a miss. From wandering around Spruce Meadow, famous for growing more species of fungus than any other Chinese province, to strolling around the 17th century Songzangling Monastery at Shangri-La, or hiking Tiger Leaping Gorge – there is so much to explore on two feet. Take a pair of sturdy shoes and embrace each very different, but equally brilliant walking experience.
Be a picky eater. We all think we know what Chinese food tastes like, but generally, the exported stuff isn’t a patch on the real thing. Especially in rural guesthouses, things will arrive on your plate that you might not like the look of. However, it’s a huge part of local hospitality to prepare dishes for visitors, so do try it – the chances are it’s a local delicacy and tastes delicious. Rice and noodles are ubiquitous at breakfast, lunch and dinner, so don’t expect cornflakes. Oh, and get some chopstick practice in before you go!
Written by Polly Humphris
Photo credits: [Page banner: Arian Zwegers] [Things to do: Mulligan Stu]