Sailing in the Cyclades Islands

“Sometimes you have the northern winds at sea, but there are always protected bays to swim in,” says Annie. “We don’t have strong currents or tides, so it’s safe to swim in the Aegean… Visitors are often surprised by how good the visibility of the water is. They aren’t used to swimming in crystal-clear waters. And you can swim anywhere – anywhere you stop, you can swim.”

The biggest island in the Cyclades is Naxos – and that’s only 40km long. Because of their snug size, most islands in this chain don’t have big chain hotels, restaurants or monster marinas. The big cruise ships are unable to dock at most islands (hurrah!) and public ferries can be far and few between – and practically non-existent in the northern Cyclades.

“You mostly sail into small fishing ports and bays,” says Annie. “And because they’re smaller, with fewer visitors, they’ve kept their traditions – the architecture, the festivals, the music. People listen to this music even today… You discover a different side of island life.”

That means you can still hear the sound of the bouzouki guitars and violins while wandering the backstreets and visit tavernas serving Cornish pasty-like pitarakia and slices of honey cheesecake. After all, traditional tavernas are a dime a dozen in these parts – many grow their own vegetables, keep their own goats, sheep and cows, and make their own olive oil and wine.

“With a ferry, you go from port to port,” says Annie. “In a boat, you explore all the coastline and all the remote beaches and bays of the islands. There is no other way to explore some of the coastlines of many of these islands, especially in the north… You can anchor overnight; you can barbecue on the beach. You can combine sailing with walking and explore inland too. Weather permitting, you can go almost anywhere you want.”

While you’re on the water, you might spot dolphins, sea turtles and (if you’re very lucky) endangered Mediterranean monk seals – the most protected animal in Europe. There are only around 250 left these days.

“It’s lovely while sailing in the Cyclades because the dolphins come and swim with you off the bow,” says Annie. “We’ve had quite a few encounters. They come and play with the boat, swim along or race.”

This sweep of the Aegean is also very clear, with visibility up to 30m – the best lens through which to spy over 200 species of fish, octopuses, seahorses and lobsters. Some trips combine scuba diving with sailing to give you the chance to discover this underwater world.

Back on land, the wild, isolated nature of many of the Cyclades, plus their spot as a migratory crossroads for birds en route to mainland Europe, Asia and Africa, makes for a massive biodiversity of species. Endemic creatures are perfectly adapted to these island outposts; watch out for Milos Island’s unique speckled wall lizard and sand-hued viper.

Many birds of prey roost in the rocky crags of the Cyclades too, well away from people. The long-winged Eleonora’s falcon is a favourite with birdwatchers, but eagles also glide through the skies, as well as shearwaters, pied wagtails and rock doves.

“It’s magical in spring,” adds Annie. “The islands can look barren in summer but there are so many wildflowers in spring that people are shocked. It’s nice to combine sailing with walking then.”