Off the beaten track Iceland
Standing in a maze of glass columns, we peered down at the fishing town of Stykkisholmur below. There was no missing it. Yellow and red houses and a silvery sky and sea were reflected in 24 floor-to-ceiling pillars, each filled with water collected from an Icelandic glacier.
We were at the Library of Water – an exhibition by artist Roni Horn and the holy grail of our summer vacation to Iceland. It’s a two-hour drive from Reykjavik, but only around six percent of tourists venture to this northern edge of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. Even fewer people stay.
So, despite visiting in the busy summer, our drive from Reykjavik to Stykkisholmur was along smooth, empty roads. We meandered, pausing to look for puffins at the wind-buffeted basalt cliffs at Drangsvogur. Later, the promise of a hot spring on the horizon was irresistible. We parked, stuffed our swimming gear in our bags, and followed a rocky path to a pair of geothermal pools with nothing but a few fellow dippers and the distant mountains for company.
We were at the Library of Water – an exhibition by artist Roni Horn and the holy grail of our summer vacation to Iceland. It’s a two-hour drive from Reykjavik, but only around six percent of tourists venture to this northern edge of the Snaefellsnes peninsula. Even fewer people stay.
So, despite visiting in the busy summer, our drive from Reykjavik to Stykkisholmur was along smooth, empty roads. We meandered, pausing to look for puffins at the wind-buffeted basalt cliffs at Drangsvogur. Later, the promise of a hot spring on the horizon was irresistible. We parked, stuffed our swimming gear in our bags, and followed a rocky path to a pair of geothermal pools with nothing but a few fellow dippers and the distant mountains for company.
Big enough to get lost on. Small enough to find yourself... I come here to place myself in the world.![]()
— Roni Horn, Library of Water artist
At one point, hypnotised by the midsummer sunshine and hooked on seeing what was around the next bend – and the next – our stomachs grumbled. It was getting towards 10pm and the sun was still in the sky. We stopped at the next restaurant and ordered our third chowder-like plokkfiskur of the vacation, this time off a handwritten menu that sketched out the daily catch.
One missed sighting of the Northern Lights, one ex-whaling town, and one volcano viewpoint later, and we were in Stykkisholmur, wandering through the Library of the Water in almost absolute peace.
Words describing the weather curved beneath our feet – “dyntott” (capricious) and “stillt” (calm). A side room of books harked back to the building’s previous life as the town library. There were audio recordings too, of local boat captains, teachers, police and farmers musing about the weather. The written history went even further back. The library marked the spot where Icelanders first tried to methodically record meteorological conditions back in the 19th century.
The Library of Water was a beautiful and bittersweet find; one of the glaciers, Okjokull, was declared dead the year that we visited. Thanks to inventive itineraries and local expertise, it’s memorable moments like these that piece together our off the beaten track vacations to Iceland.
One missed sighting of the Northern Lights, one ex-whaling town, and one volcano viewpoint later, and we were in Stykkisholmur, wandering through the Library of the Water in almost absolute peace.
Words describing the weather curved beneath our feet – “dyntott” (capricious) and “stillt” (calm). A side room of books harked back to the building’s previous life as the town library. There were audio recordings too, of local boat captains, teachers, police and farmers musing about the weather. The written history went even further back. The library marked the spot where Icelanders first tried to methodically record meteorological conditions back in the 19th century.
The Library of Water was a beautiful and bittersweet find; one of the glaciers, Okjokull, was declared dead the year that we visited. Thanks to inventive itineraries and local expertise, it’s memorable moments like these that piece together our off the beaten track vacations to Iceland.
To the fjords of the north
"I'm based in the north of Iceland," says Jacob Wood, from Alkemia Travel, who run our walking vacations in Iceland
When I zoom in on Google Maps – and in again – I can see their retreat center on the edge of a fjord, across the water from Akureyri. The closest neighbours are a village and a luminous orange lighthouse.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, Jacob believes the north is the best region for a more peaceful exploration of Iceland.
“Stunning landscapes, fewer tourists, and a closer connection to Icelandic culture and traditions,” he says. “A more authentic and serene experience compared to the more crowded south.”
Generally, Jacob and team are big believers in traveling off-piste. “Exploring off the usual tourist routes provides a more personal experience of Iceland,” says Jacob. “It’s enjoyable because it allows you to discover unique landscapes, encounter wildlife in their natural habitats, and connect with Icelandic culture in a way that isn’t possible in more touristy areas. It also means less crowded spots, giving you the chance to fully immerse yourself in the natural beauty around you.”
When I zoom in on Google Maps – and in again – I can see their retreat center on the edge of a fjord, across the water from Akureyri. The closest neighbours are a village and a luminous orange lighthouse.
Perhaps unsurprisingly, Jacob believes the north is the best region for a more peaceful exploration of Iceland.
“Stunning landscapes, fewer tourists, and a closer connection to Icelandic culture and traditions,” he says. “A more authentic and serene experience compared to the more crowded south.”
Generally, Jacob and team are big believers in traveling off-piste. “Exploring off the usual tourist routes provides a more personal experience of Iceland,” says Jacob. “It’s enjoyable because it allows you to discover unique landscapes, encounter wildlife in their natural habitats, and connect with Icelandic culture in a way that isn’t possible in more touristy areas. It also means less crowded spots, giving you the chance to fully immerse yourself in the natural beauty around you.”
The north is a more authentic and serene experience compared to the more crowded south.![]()
Jacob’s favorite places are all well off the usual tourist route. There’s the rarely visited Westfjords, where mountains dip straight into the ocean and cliffs look like they’ve been snapped off by an unseen force. With Iceland’s lively tectonic history, that’s probably about right. The Highlands is largely uninhabited by people; a 4x4 is a must here. You can combine both on our Westfjords and Highlands vacation.
Then there’s the Diamond Circle – a waterfall-studded driving route that draws you to less-visited spots like the Tjornes Peninsula, striped with fossils.
Our vacations also give you the chance to stay at places that few other tourists reach. “Helgafell, which means ‘Sacred Mountain’, is a retreat center,” says Jacob. “It’s perfect for those seeking tranquillity and a deeper connection with nature.”
Sometimes, that place to stay is a cabin aboard an expedition ship. Our circumnavigation cruises circle the whole of Iceland – even detouring as far as remote Grimsey island to cross the Arctic Circle and look for birds like northern fulmars, terns, puffins and snow buntings.
Spending a week zooming in on the geology, culture and wildlife of Iceland while visiting places that bigger ships can’t reach is a far cry from the colossal cruise ships that descend on Reykjavik and Akureyri for just a day before chugging off to the next port.
Our cruises stay longer, slowing down to admire the island from a different view and tweaking course for any whale or aurora sightings. The crew also encourage you to spend time and money on land – which means you get the pleasure of discovering exactly why plokkfiskur is so good and hike with local guides who know the most peaceful paths. Or you can simply sit in a village café with a coffee and watch the fishing boats head out. Chances are, the beans will be freshly roasted – in Iceland, there’s not a Starbucks in sight.
Then there’s the Diamond Circle – a waterfall-studded driving route that draws you to less-visited spots like the Tjornes Peninsula, striped with fossils.
Our vacations also give you the chance to stay at places that few other tourists reach. “Helgafell, which means ‘Sacred Mountain’, is a retreat center,” says Jacob. “It’s perfect for those seeking tranquillity and a deeper connection with nature.”
Sometimes, that place to stay is a cabin aboard an expedition ship. Our circumnavigation cruises circle the whole of Iceland – even detouring as far as remote Grimsey island to cross the Arctic Circle and look for birds like northern fulmars, terns, puffins and snow buntings.
Spending a week zooming in on the geology, culture and wildlife of Iceland while visiting places that bigger ships can’t reach is a far cry from the colossal cruise ships that descend on Reykjavik and Akureyri for just a day before chugging off to the next port.
Our cruises stay longer, slowing down to admire the island from a different view and tweaking course for any whale or aurora sightings. The crew also encourage you to spend time and money on land – which means you get the pleasure of discovering exactly why plokkfiskur is so good and hike with local guides who know the most peaceful paths. Or you can simply sit in a village café with a coffee and watch the fishing boats head out. Chances are, the beans will be freshly roasted – in Iceland, there’s not a Starbucks in sight.
Self drive sagas beyond the Golden Circle
A lot of the time, it was just us on the road… it’s a pleasure.![]()
Our self drive vacations are one of the best ways to get off the beaten track in Iceland. “Renting a 4x4 vehicle allows you to access more remote areas,” says Jacob. “Consulting local guides and using less-known trails and roads can help you find hidden gems.”
Responsible Travel partnership manager, Alison, agrees. She travelled east on our Iceland self drive vacation. Our experts arranged the car hire, designed a suggested route, and booked accommodation in advance. It’s just up to you to get yourself from scenic A to spectacular B.
“The journey east from Vik to Jokulsarlon is stunning,” says Alison. “You go through so many different landscapes. You’ve got petrified lava beds covered in moss and then you go past amazing, huge glaciers… you go through one bit that’s like Monument Valley. It changes – and then the next minute, you’ve got beautiful snowscapes. There are so many different variations… And I loved the Icelandic horses huddled at the side of the road to keep warm; you can see their manes blowing in the wind.”
Jokulsarlon, on the edge of Vatnajokull National Park, is visited by a fraction of people arriving in winter and spring. Here, icebergs head out to sea and you might glimpse the flash of a whale tail on the horizon. It’s also a launch pad for glacier walks. Go with local guides who know how to safely navigate terrain packed with snow and ice, kitting you out with crampons, helmets and ice picks. Your reward? Immense vistas of Vatnajokull – the second largest ice cap in the world, streaked with ash from previous volcanic eruptions.
The drive onwards is pretty rewarding too. “A lot of the time, it was just us on the road. Occasionally, local people overtook us because we were taking our time,” says Alison. “It’s really easy to drive – it’s a pleasure… You feel like you’ve got the place to yourself.”
Planning your trip with flexibility in mind and being open to detours can lead to unexpected discoveries – like the Library of Water. Or the Icelandic love for sour ales. Beer has become the most popular tipple on the island since the 74-year prohibition ended in 1989.
“We went to a geothermal-powered brewery that had heaters and made its own pizzas,” says Alison. “It was in a shopping precinct area, so not particularly touristy. I had a delicious if slightly unusual vegan pizza topped with Icelandic seaweed, chilli and coconut… washed down with pistachio sour beer! It was amazing.”
Responsible Travel partnership manager, Alison, agrees. She travelled east on our Iceland self drive vacation. Our experts arranged the car hire, designed a suggested route, and booked accommodation in advance. It’s just up to you to get yourself from scenic A to spectacular B.
“The journey east from Vik to Jokulsarlon is stunning,” says Alison. “You go through so many different landscapes. You’ve got petrified lava beds covered in moss and then you go past amazing, huge glaciers… you go through one bit that’s like Monument Valley. It changes – and then the next minute, you’ve got beautiful snowscapes. There are so many different variations… And I loved the Icelandic horses huddled at the side of the road to keep warm; you can see their manes blowing in the wind.”
Jokulsarlon, on the edge of Vatnajokull National Park, is visited by a fraction of people arriving in winter and spring. Here, icebergs head out to sea and you might glimpse the flash of a whale tail on the horizon. It’s also a launch pad for glacier walks. Go with local guides who know how to safely navigate terrain packed with snow and ice, kitting you out with crampons, helmets and ice picks. Your reward? Immense vistas of Vatnajokull – the second largest ice cap in the world, streaked with ash from previous volcanic eruptions.
The drive onwards is pretty rewarding too. “A lot of the time, it was just us on the road. Occasionally, local people overtook us because we were taking our time,” says Alison. “It’s really easy to drive – it’s a pleasure… You feel like you’ve got the place to yourself.”
Planning your trip with flexibility in mind and being open to detours can lead to unexpected discoveries – like the Library of Water. Or the Icelandic love for sour ales. Beer has become the most popular tipple on the island since the 74-year prohibition ended in 1989.
“We went to a geothermal-powered brewery that had heaters and made its own pizzas,” says Alison. “It was in a shopping precinct area, so not particularly touristy. I had a delicious if slightly unusual vegan pizza topped with Icelandic seaweed, chilli and coconut… washed down with pistachio sour beer! It was amazing.”
Iceland 7 day tour in style
Visit Iceland's stunning scenery with a touch of luxury.
From
£3590
7 days
ex flights
Iceland Northern Lights tour
Glaciers, lava tubes and nature's spectacular light show
From
US $2640 to US $3375
5 days
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Winter photography tour in Iceland
Little-visited East Fjords and iconic southern locations
From
£4600
10 days
ex flights
Iceland highlights self drive vacation
Fly-drive all of Iceland's highlights in just 2 weeks
From
£3380
14 days
ex flights
Iceland Arctic Coast Way self drive vacation
Discover the lesser visited northern coast of Iceland
From
£2020
7 days
inc UK flights
Iceland hike and swim vacation
Swim & hike Iceland where geothermal heat meets glacial cold
From
£2495
5 days
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Winter or summer? That is the question
“My favorite time of year in Iceland is late spring to early summer – May to June,” says Jacob. “The weather is milder, the days are long, and the landscape comes alive with blooming wildflowers and lush greenery.”
“It’s also a great time for bird watching, especially puffins,” Jacob adds. “And enjoying the midnight sun.”
Alison visited in April: “One minute, it’s clear as a bell and the next minute you’re going through a snowstorm.” Despite the changeable weather, it isn’t a challenging drive. “All the wheels have spikes on their tyres. The roads are so good… it was light until 8.30pm.”
Plus, there’s always the chance of seeing the aurora borealis: “We saw the Northern Lights just outside Selfoss. It looks like something is dancing in the sky… it is quite a magical feeling.”
Winter and spring are also a great time for thawing out in hot springs. Alison recommends swapping the Blue Lagoon for quieter spots like the Secret Lagoon, the oldest swimming pool in Iceland. The below-zero windchill might mean it’s woolly hat weather, but the 38-40°C water temperature keeps things cosy.
“It’s really nice because it’s very low-key,” says Ali. “Quite a lot of local people go. When we were there, these guys turned up and were drinking their beer in there, winding down after a day at work.”
“It’s also a great time for bird watching, especially puffins,” Jacob adds. “And enjoying the midnight sun.”
Alison visited in April: “One minute, it’s clear as a bell and the next minute you’re going through a snowstorm.” Despite the changeable weather, it isn’t a challenging drive. “All the wheels have spikes on their tyres. The roads are so good… it was light until 8.30pm.”
Plus, there’s always the chance of seeing the aurora borealis: “We saw the Northern Lights just outside Selfoss. It looks like something is dancing in the sky… it is quite a magical feeling.”
Winter and spring are also a great time for thawing out in hot springs. Alison recommends swapping the Blue Lagoon for quieter spots like the Secret Lagoon, the oldest swimming pool in Iceland. The below-zero windchill might mean it’s woolly hat weather, but the 38-40°C water temperature keeps things cosy.
“It’s really nice because it’s very low-key,” says Ali. “Quite a lot of local people go. When we were there, these guys turned up and were drinking their beer in there, winding down after a day at work.”
And finally… prepare yourself for the inevitable return
When I returned from Iceland, I swore to go back every year, exploring a different area each time. My ambitious plan didn’t materialise, but the desire to return as soon as you’ve left is a common one.
“I’d really like to go back again,” agrees Alison. “Iceland is otherworldly. Everything is hyped up. You feel like you’re really in touch with nature and the elements. It makes you feel quite small, but in a good way. It’s quite humbling… Take me back!”
“I’d really like to go back again,” agrees Alison. “Iceland is otherworldly. Everything is hyped up. You feel like you’re really in touch with nature and the elements. It makes you feel quite small, but in a good way. It’s quite humbling… Take me back!”
Responsible Travel would like to thank the European Travel Commission
and The Nordics for commissioning this page
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