Overtourism in Iceland
It may seem as though Iceland has been on the traveler's radar for decades, but in fact this island nation has only become a hotspot for tourists comparatively recently. However, with annual visitor numbers now in the millions and Iceland’s population less than 400,000, it’s easy to understand why local people already feel swamped at busy times.
What is overtourism?
Overtourism isn’t about visitor numbers per se, it’s about too many visitors landing in one particular destination – and it’s happening in Iceland. The country is known for its wild, otherworldly landscapes, glacial lakes, black sand beaches and erupting geysers. It has remote shores, huge national parks and unspoiled harbours. Unfortunately, not enough visitors make it to see them. Almost all travelers who fly into Iceland come through Keflavik, 45 minutes from Reykjavik. Many then treat Reykjavik as little more than a stopover, staying here briefly and perhaps popping to the Blue Lagoon before moving on, while others may make it to sights that are within a drive of the capital, such as the Golden Circle. This situation has led to overtourism.
What you can do
There is no need to scrub Iceland off your list of must see destinations. The solution is simply to travel responsibly, by thinking about the places you travel to, and the times you travel.
When it comes to place, that means looking beyond Reykjavik and the daytrip destinations that lie nearby. Visit less popular regions where overtourism isn’t an issue and where your money will benefit local communities.
Timing your trip is also important. July and August remain peak months but, over the past three years, tourist numbers have been proportionately greater in winter than in spring, summer and autumn. It’s still worth traveling outside those popular summer months, though, particularly if you want to visit some of the key sights that ring Reykjavik. In addition, you may enjoy cheaper prices.
Avoiding peak July and August doesn’t mean missing out. Most activities, from spotting the aurora to hiking, are available outside those busy months. May, June and September are great for whale watching, plus you may get a glimpse of the Northern Lights if you come in late September. June boasts long days, drier weather and warmer temperatures, and is a great time for hiking. Snow comes as early as September (and can linger to May) and while winters can be tough, there are lots of chances to see the aurora borealis during the long dark hours.
Another cause of Iceland’s overtourism is its accessibility for independent travelers – just book an Airbnb, bag a cheap flight, hire a car and you’re off – but one of the easiest ways to swerve the issue of overtourism and travel responsibly is to join an organised tour. Tours take you off the beaten path, avoiding tourism honey pots and revealing a quiet, unspoiled side of the island. Small group tours bring environmental benefits, too. You’ll travel in a single vehicle, rather than contributing to the hire cars on the roads, and can travel safely during off peak seasons, when an experienced local driver can confidently navigate tricky road and weather conditions. Small group vacations also open up the chance to hike, cycle, snowshoe and cruise by small ship, with an expert guide leading you, experiencing the island in a way that many independent travelers never do. This style of travel maximises the positive impacts of your visit and minimises the negative ones. It also benefits you, as you enjoy Iceland at its best, experiencing its unique beauty without the crowds.
You can read more about the benefits of choosing a tour to Iceland here.
Causes of overtourism in Iceland
Much of Iceland's problems with overtourism stem from a long period of attempting to entice budget travelers, taking the view that 'the more people come the better' with little thought to what they do, and spend, while in the country.
In purely financial terms, this approach proved hugely effective and that explains why officials have proved reluctant to introduce measures such as capping visitor numbers, increasing (or introducing) daily tourist taxes and tolls on roads, charging cruise liners for docking or even charging people to park up at major tourist attractions such as Thingvellir and Gullfoss, on the popular Golden Circle route.
Another cause of overtourism is Icelandair’s long held policy of encouraging passengers to make a stopover in the country for up to seven nights, on any flight across the Atlantic, at no additional cost. People taking advantage of this often do no more than spend a night in Reykjavik, swelling the city’s already huge visitor population.
Another cause of overtourism is Icelandair’s long held policy of encouraging passengers to make a stopover in the country for up to seven nights, on any flight across the Atlantic, at no additional cost. People taking advantage of this often do no more than spend a night in Reykjavik, swelling the city’s already huge visitor population.
Perhaps even more harmful than this are the cruise ships that dock at Reykjavik harbour. Many thousands of passengers are discharged daily, flooding the streets, visiting the same few shops, bars and restaurants when they spend at all, and generally doing very little for the Icelandic economy while putting great strain on locals' patience.
What impact does overtourism have?
Overtourism’s affects are far reaching. While Iceland’s tourism key players were busy marketing the country to dig them out of the economic depression, little thought was given to the country’s infrastructure. Now, Iceland’s roads are deteriorating under the volume of tour buses and hire cars that use them each day.
Facilities at key attractions are struggling to cope, too. In one particularly revolting example, there have been reports of tourists defecating and urinating outside at major sites, because public toilets were overcrowded and poorly maintained. Interestingly, it's been reported that local people feel this links back to Iceland’s open door policy on tourism. Iceland has been marketed as a country where you don’t have to pay for anything – including the toilets. Consequently, at the main café at Gullfoss, where a fee is charged to use the toilets, some tourists refuse and go outside. This in turn makes it harder for the café to find funds to maintain the already overused facilities, and cleanliness standards drop, so all tourists suffer.
Accommodating the huge numbers of tourists that flood in is also an issue. Far more visitors arrive than there are hotel rooms to put them all up. Airbnb has helped meet demand. A map of Airbnb listings in Reykjavik is a blur of overlapping coloured points, indicating homes now available to rent, creating blanket coverage of the city. This has lead to property prices climbing, affecting local residents who, in addition, see central Reykjavik turning into a tourist ghetto, where few locals live and where long standing businesses such as shops and music venues are pushed out by tourist orientated chains and hotels.
Legislation attempting to limit the number of days a homeowner can rent out their property on Airbnb has not had the desired effect. Owners remain exempt from having to register their home as a place of business, which incurs taxes, so long as the property is rented out for no more than 90 days. For some homeowners, this has simply encouraged them to rent out their homes for longer periods, so that registering becomes cost effective. And some homeowners simply ignore the legislation, with many long term Airbnb listings not registered, suggesting it’s not really workable.
Cruise ship passengers also flood into Reykjavik, but only for a few hours, before returning to the ship for the night. It means they contribute to overcrowding in the city, but not too its economy beyond, perhaps, the price of a coffee and a puffin fridge magnet.
The impact on the environment is also concerning. Many destinations popular on bus tours today were once untouched natural wonders enjoyed in solitude by local families. Hiking trails are being degraded and famous sights damaged. Tourists routinely scrabble across precious moss that covers Thingvellir National Park and various lava fields, for example. Some tourists drive off road, too, damaging fragile landscapes.
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