Rajang river basin, Sarawak

In Sarawak, the Iban tribal people will often measure their longhouses by the number of doors. The single-storey structures, some dating back to the 18th century and usually standing on stilts, serve as shared living quarters for multiple families and also as communal spaces. Each family has its own door for entry, and some longhouses can have 30 or more doors. Another family arrived into the community? No problem, just add an extension, and another doorway.

These simple wooden homes offer Iban people a feeling of togetherness and security. A tour of one of them to learn about tribal life, perhaps an opportunity to sleep over, is a major highlight of Sarawak vacations. The remote Batang Ai longhouse, which can only be reached by boat, is a popular overnight visit from the capital, Kuching. Now, Kuching, and the national parks around it, tends to be the focus of most Sarawak vacations, and you’re already pretty far off the beaten tourism track when you get to Malaysian Borneo. But just a six-hour drive (or five-hour ferry) northeast of Kuching brings you to Sibu, gateway to the Rajang river basin, with its many small riverine towns, and an area that is both culturally distinct and far less-visited. The Ulu Sarikei longhouse here, an 85km drive from Sibu, is much more accessible than those that require a river transfer, and offers an engaging experience staying on a rural farm that is significantly different to what you’ll find at the more well-known longhouses further west.