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Responsible tourism in Kerala
People often talk about Kerala being the ‘easy’ part of India. Less Delhi Belly, less in your face poverty, less culture shock. Keralites even tell you that when people from north India come to Kerala they get a culture shock, but a positive one. Keralites are proud that they are the most educated and literate in India. They have always been able to look outwards and indeed, many have travelled outwards to the Far East to work. Perhaps the time has come, however, for Kerala to start looking inwards again. To look at the poverty that does exist here, to the overdevelopment of its coastline and the lack of protection of its environment and wildlife in many places, sometimes quite simply because of a lack of infrastructure and government regulation. Time to stop resting on its laurels on being called ‘God’s Own Country’. It’s not a god on high that will save it from tourism driven by numbers. It’s the people on high at government level, but also tourists themselves. Because it is only when we highlight the issues as tourists, that the major players start to sit up and take notice. Which isn’t ‘easy’. But it is possible.
Our Kerala Vacations
Kerala tailor made vacation, 11 days
Revitalize in Kerala - A most wonderful and balanced trip
From
£1349 to £1779
11 days
ex flights
Kerala homestay tour, India
Stay in homestays in various destinations in Kerala
From
£2270
16 days
inc UK flights
Kerala birdwatching vacations, Western Ghats
An endemic birding tour through the Western Ghats of India
From
£1320
8 days
ex flights
Tailor made houseboat cruise in Kerala, India
Cruise along the backwaters of Kerala
From
£1575
10 days
inc UK flights
Kerala luxury vacation
Experience a diverse range of Kerala’s best-loved landscapes
From
£2795
16 days
inc UK flights
Southern India small group vacation
Discover the two southern most states of India
From
US $1899 to US $2099
14 days
ex flights
Wildlife & environment
We rate houseboats and we do, indeed, think that they rock. And years ago, whoever thought of tapping into tourism by renting out one of these unique rice boats or kettuvalloms, was onto a great thing. Kerala's backwaters, its villages and varied waterscapes were suddenly accessible, and tourists who thought Kerala was all Kovalam and Kathakali began to see a whole new, exciting picture. The only problem is that word spread very quickly and houseboats started to increase from a handful to hundreds within a space of a few years. Tourism Watch, A German NGO, published a report in 2005 highlighting the extreme river pollution caused by houseboat tourism, from kerosene to condoms, and consequently, the Kerala government changed the law. Now, all owners are obliged to have less powerful , and thus less polluting engines, and there are new waste facilities at Alapuzha and Kumarakom. There is also a congestion issue for many local people who still transport their kids to school by canoe, and have safety concerns due to the numbers and speed of houseboats. Some boats are realising their responsibility, and have installed solar panels to power air con and water pumps, etc. However, given that it is such an important source of tourism income, it still remains relatively unregulated, so tourists need to research carefully. We also highly recommend combining a houseboat stay with a homestay, which ensures your tourism spend is going straight into the community.
Peter Bishop, Programmes Manager for the UK charity Tourism Concern:
"Houseboat tourism can be a delightful way to explore the beautiful backwaters of Kerala, and can bring benefit to lots of local people. However there are a number of key issues which are threatening to make this unsustainable and even damaging. The most serious problem is the number of boats. Although many are locally owned, increasing numbers are being bought up by commercial concerns from elsewhere keen to exploit this lucrative market. Waste disposal (including pumping raw sewage into the waters, diesel pollution, plastic and other waste) is a major concern. There are waste collection and pump out stations but these are often ignored or not functional. Many local communities depend on these waters for fishing and for drinking water. Privacy is another key issue, with poor regulation (and even poorer enforcement) of mooring. Many local communities complain of tourist boats mooring alongside houses, of noise, inappropriate behaviour and invasive use of cameras etc. In 2012, working with Kabani - our local partner in Kerala - Tourism Concern consulted with several thousand people in communities affected by houseboat tourism. As a result we jointly proposed that a Code of Conduct for houseboat owners be developed, provisions of which would include compliance with regulations for waste disposal, and undertakings to respect local people. The code of conduct could be promoted via the Kerala Houseboat Owners Association and would be displayed on boats. In turn, tourists would be able choose to travel only with those signing up to the Code, and could hold their boat accountable against its provisions."
Diana Syrett, Managing Director of one of our top suppliers, Kerala Connections:
“With houseboat trips, stay for more than one night. If you just do one night, you check in at lunchtime, and check out after breakfast the next day, and so you really only get an afternoon’s cruising. And during that time you won’t get very far away from the main waterways , because there are so many houseboats on the backwaters now. So, with two or three nights you can get away from the crowds and enjoy remote rural life, hopping on and off as you go. It is also down to the houseboat operator you choose. We rate ours very highly, especially on the environmental side of things, as well as having a good fleet of houseboats”.
What you can do
Chat with your tour operator about where your houseboat is going, if it is going off the beaten track and spending quality time in villages along the way. If you take a day tour, the chances are you won't be doing that as there will no time to escape the crowds, so you really need a couple of nights to get off the beaten backwaters. You can also ask about whether there is responsible disposal of waste along the way. Keep an eye on their environmental practices and always give feedback to your tour operator and the Kerala Houseboat Owners Association if you feel they are not responsible. Also, act responsibly on houseboats and remember that you are going through villages which have different cultures. So, even though you are on a boat, you are still visible from the shore, and it is advised to still dress correctly, don't show overt intimacy as it causes offence, keep the noise down and generally be respectful of the communities you pass through.
Peter Bishop, Programmes Manager for the UK charity Tourism Concern:
"Houseboat tourism can be a delightful way to explore the beautiful backwaters of Kerala, and can bring benefit to lots of local people. However there are a number of key issues which are threatening to make this unsustainable and even damaging. The most serious problem is the number of boats. Although many are locally owned, increasing numbers are being bought up by commercial concerns from elsewhere keen to exploit this lucrative market. Waste disposal (including pumping raw sewage into the waters, diesel pollution, plastic and other waste) is a major concern. There are waste collection and pump out stations but these are often ignored or not functional. Many local communities depend on these waters for fishing and for drinking water. Privacy is another key issue, with poor regulation (and even poorer enforcement) of mooring. Many local communities complain of tourist boats mooring alongside houses, of noise, inappropriate behaviour and invasive use of cameras etc. In 2012, working with Kabani - our local partner in Kerala - Tourism Concern consulted with several thousand people in communities affected by houseboat tourism. As a result we jointly proposed that a Code of Conduct for houseboat owners be developed, provisions of which would include compliance with regulations for waste disposal, and undertakings to respect local people. The code of conduct could be promoted via the Kerala Houseboat Owners Association and would be displayed on boats. In turn, tourists would be able choose to travel only with those signing up to the Code, and could hold their boat accountable against its provisions."
Diana Syrett, Managing Director of one of our top suppliers, Kerala Connections:
“With houseboat trips, stay for more than one night. If you just do one night, you check in at lunchtime, and check out after breakfast the next day, and so you really only get an afternoon’s cruising. And during that time you won’t get very far away from the main waterways , because there are so many houseboats on the backwaters now. So, with two or three nights you can get away from the crowds and enjoy remote rural life, hopping on and off as you go. It is also down to the houseboat operator you choose. We rate ours very highly, especially on the environmental side of things, as well as having a good fleet of houseboats”.
What you can do
Chat with your tour operator about where your houseboat is going, if it is going off the beaten track and spending quality time in villages along the way. If you take a day tour, the chances are you won't be doing that as there will no time to escape the crowds, so you really need a couple of nights to get off the beaten backwaters. You can also ask about whether there is responsible disposal of waste along the way. Keep an eye on their environmental practices and always give feedback to your tour operator and the Kerala Houseboat Owners Association if you feel they are not responsible. Also, act responsibly on houseboats and remember that you are going through villages which have different cultures. So, even though you are on a boat, you are still visible from the shore, and it is advised to still dress correctly, don't show overt intimacy as it causes offence, keep the noise down and generally be respectful of the communities you pass through.
People & culture
Because Kerala is seen, and indeed marketed, as being a bit more cool and cosmopolitan than other Indian states, it comes as a shock to some tourists when they aren’t given ‘open all hours’ access to cultural sights. Rather reassuringly, Hindu temples in Kerala have kept their doors closed to non-Hindus and, therefore, many tourists, preserving them as the spiritual strongholds they were meant to be. Some do allow entry, however, and if they do, there are strict codes to adhere to.
Firstly, photography is nearly always strictly prohibited. In all temples, you should use only your right hand to offer donations or receive holy water. Dress code is important. For men, this is usually the traditional mundu (similar to a sarong) without a shirt, and for women, a dress that covers the legs, not shirt and trousers. In temples that allow visitors, these are often available for hire. And always remove your shoes outside the temple. Cleanliness is also important, and Hindus traditionally wash before entering the temple. Increasingly controversial nowadays, women are not meant to enter the temple if they have their period either.
With its multicultural demographic, there are other spiritual sites to visit and it is worth noting traditions here too, of course. Some Muslim mosques don’t allow women inside and if they do, they must wear a dress that covers the whole body and cover their head. Again, no photography here please. And in Kerala, in Christian churches, men sit on the left and women on the right, although some don’t have pews. During mass, women are expected to cover their heads. The synagogue at Kochi is not open to non-Jews on Saturdays and on other days, dress code is again to cover up as much as possible.
Firstly, photography is nearly always strictly prohibited. In all temples, you should use only your right hand to offer donations or receive holy water. Dress code is important. For men, this is usually the traditional mundu (similar to a sarong) without a shirt, and for women, a dress that covers the legs, not shirt and trousers. In temples that allow visitors, these are often available for hire. And always remove your shoes outside the temple. Cleanliness is also important, and Hindus traditionally wash before entering the temple. Increasingly controversial nowadays, women are not meant to enter the temple if they have their period either.
With its multicultural demographic, there are other spiritual sites to visit and it is worth noting traditions here too, of course. Some Muslim mosques don’t allow women inside and if they do, they must wear a dress that covers the whole body and cover their head. Again, no photography here please. And in Kerala, in Christian churches, men sit on the left and women on the right, although some don’t have pews. During mass, women are expected to cover their heads. The synagogue at Kochi is not open to non-Jews on Saturdays and on other days, dress code is again to cover up as much as possible.
Diana Syrett, Managing Director of one of our top suppliers, Kerala Connections
“In Kerala, apart from three temples, non-Hindus are not allowed inside temples at all, not even in the grounds, and sometimes they have security guards to make sure you don’t go through the gates. It’s really quite strict. Whereas Tamil Nadu and Karnataka are much more laid back about it, and even in major pilgrimage centers such as Madurai, one of the biggest in India, a non-Hindu can go right the way around, inside the temples and only the inner sanctum is kept private. So, a lot of people go to India for the culture, and it seems like a waste of time to go all the way just to sit on the beach, and when they hope to see temples, they will be disappointed if they don’t cross the border because the chances are they won’t get inside a temple at all."
“In Kerala, apart from three temples, non-Hindus are not allowed inside temples at all, not even in the grounds, and sometimes they have security guards to make sure you don’t go through the gates. It’s really quite strict. Whereas Tamil Nadu and Karnataka are much more laid back about it, and even in major pilgrimage centers such as Madurai, one of the biggest in India, a non-Hindu can go right the way around, inside the temples and only the inner sanctum is kept private. So, a lot of people go to India for the culture, and it seems like a waste of time to go all the way just to sit on the beach, and when they hope to see temples, they will be disappointed if they don’t cross the border because the chances are they won’t get inside a temple at all."
Responsible tourism tips
Rajat Kumar, Managing Director of our supplier ExplorIndya
“Although sometimes tourists don’t expect it, you do see extreme poverty in Kerala, but you also see extreme culture, extreme education and extreme family history. So, it’s just that the disparity isn’t as big as you might see in other parts of India. The difference is that when we talk about the poor in Kerala, we don’t talk about absolute destitution and slum dwelling poverty. You don’t see people sleeping under bridges and on pavements. You might see a farmer with a very small piece of land who simply wants to make ends meet. He lives hand to mouth but he does live a life with the basic essentials. Which is very different to poverty in the north of India."
Vishal Koshy, general manager of our supplier Kalypso Adventures
“Most hotels have a common tip box where you can leave something extra for service, but guides and drivers do depend on tips, so please remember this on your travels."
Rajat Kumar, Managing Director of our supplier ExplorIndya
The whole idea of gifting pens to kids bothers me. I don’t diss the reasons behind it. I diss the act itself. When this started, the reasons behind it were very noble as the pen was seen as a direct tool to empower the child to study and write. But today it has become a game that locals play with tourists, and tourists encourage with the act itself. It is ironic because it actually drives children to skip school and hang out in areas frequented by western tourists because they know they will get handfuls of pens. They just keep them in boxes, where they collect hundreds of pens, and it is a satire."
“Although sometimes tourists don’t expect it, you do see extreme poverty in Kerala, but you also see extreme culture, extreme education and extreme family history. So, it’s just that the disparity isn’t as big as you might see in other parts of India. The difference is that when we talk about the poor in Kerala, we don’t talk about absolute destitution and slum dwelling poverty. You don’t see people sleeping under bridges and on pavements. You might see a farmer with a very small piece of land who simply wants to make ends meet. He lives hand to mouth but he does live a life with the basic essentials. Which is very different to poverty in the north of India."
Vishal Koshy, general manager of our supplier Kalypso Adventures
“Most hotels have a common tip box where you can leave something extra for service, but guides and drivers do depend on tips, so please remember this on your travels."
Rajat Kumar, Managing Director of our supplier ExplorIndya
The whole idea of gifting pens to kids bothers me. I don’t diss the reasons behind it. I diss the act itself. When this started, the reasons behind it were very noble as the pen was seen as a direct tool to empower the child to study and write. But today it has become a game that locals play with tourists, and tourists encourage with the act itself. It is ironic because it actually drives children to skip school and hang out in areas frequented by western tourists because they know they will get handfuls of pens. They just keep them in boxes, where they collect hundreds of pens, and it is a satire."
More about Kerala
Discover the best time to visit Kerala, according to its three specific seasons, which range from cool and dry, to hot and humid, with a monsoon season, too.
This Kerala travel guide explores every side of this southern Indian state, from hiking in the Ghat Mountains, and canoeing through the backwaters, to discovering Kerala’s stonkingly delicious food, tea and spices.
Kerala’s map and highlights of places to see covers a glorious gamut of temples and trekking, backwaters and beaches, spices and cycling , tigers and tea plantations.
The food in Kerala is as big a highlight as its green hills, coast and wonderful wildlife, and its mellow flavours and nutritious ingredients have seduced many a hungry traveler.
Kerala’s converted rice barges are a great way to explore the backwaters, and the houseboats that Responsible Travel recommends offer an authentic experience.
In Kerala, visiting the spice and tea plantations that cloak the hills is a highlight of any vacation, while on the coast, the port town of Kochi still bustles with the spice trade.
Hiking through tea and spice plantations, up forested slopes to peaks with views over lakes and distant plains – walking vacations in Kerala are a treat.
Ayurveda is an ancient healthcare system that originated in southern India and still thrives in Kerala today.
Some families head to Kerala to soak up the winter sun, but there are many ways to see Kerala with kids that will stay with them for the rest of their lives.
Read lots of advice on travel to Kerala, on everything from visas and packing, to culture and food, from some of our expert travel companies and fellow travelers.
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