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India vacations are a magical menagerie, an escape into the exotic and a means of breaking down all our western conventions and presumptions. The Golden Triangle, Delhi, the Taj Mahal and Jaipur offer palaces, princes, mughals and mystery. However, beaches and waterways further south present more relaxed alternatives with the trails in Ladakh an absolute must for hikers. Go one step off the tourist trail, and it will feel like a million miles.