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Responsible tourism in Cuba

As trade embargos end, travel restrictions are dropped, and the world floods into Cuba to see it “before it changes”. The concept of responsible tourism in Cuba seems to be shifting by the day. We’ve taken a closer look at some of the bigger issues facing this little island – from the end of communism to the dual currency; donating goods and keeping an open mind.

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Responsible tourism in Cuba

Cuba is in an unprecedented moment, as its traditional allies fall away under pressure from the United States, putting intense strain on the isolated island's communist government. This page will be periodically updated as matters progress.

In Cuba, it’s not so much a matter of how do you vacation responsibly at the moment, but how do you vacation at all?

Ever since the Cuban Revolution, between 1952 and 1959, the relationship between Cuba and its neighbour to the north, the United States, has been one of tension and outright hostility that has ebbed and flowed with the changes in American administrations. But Cuba’s stability is under threat as never before. In a hugely controversial move, American troops kidnapped the Venezuelan president, Nicholas Maduro, and took him to the United States to face charges of drug trafficking. Venezuela has long been a key ally and supplier of oil to Cuba. That vital link has now been severed. The Trump Administration has also put pressure on Mexico, which has stopped shipping oil to Cuba, too.

Months of punitive oil sanctions have led to rolling blackouts across the island. Food can’t be refrigerated, buses cannot run, operations have to be cancelled, and water pumps cannot function. Tourism, one of Cuba’s main sources of revenue, is now virtually zero. Many international airlines are cancelling flights, and governments are warning against all-but-essential travel. And even if you can get there, there is no fuel to get around, and your hotel or homestay cannot keep the lights on.

“Whether I free it, take it, I could do anything I want with it, you want to know the truth," said President Trump. Cuba is at the mercy of a notoriously unpredictable American administration and sadly it is regular people, many of whom already live in deep poverty, that are suffering the most.

People & culture

The end of an era?

Ironically, communism had been slowly easing its grip on Cuba since the death of Fidel Castro in 2016. The government had begun allowing imported technology and private enterprise, and there was an increasing sense amongst travelers that you have to “go there now, before it all changes”.

Everyone is keen to get a glimpse behind this modern Iron Curtain at one of the world’s last communist states. Cuba's famed self-sufficiency, brought about by necessity, its rejection of capitalism and its socialist welfare state resulted in a virtually classless society, with a superb healthcare system and free education for all. Years of isolation and trade embargoes have created a nation of expert recyclers; 70-year-old cars rumble on, clothing and shoes are repaired endlessly. Oxen – rather than tractors – plough the fields, and dominoes dominate over games consoles.

But it’s easy to idealise. Communism does not prize entrepreneurship, and virtually everyone in Cuba is employed on a meagre state salary, subsidised by pitiful state rations. Those that do get their hands on the sought-after American dollars will find little to spend them on; the empty shops are hard to miss. Cubans are also not allowed to leave the country; it may be beautiful, but for its citizens it is also an island prison.

So – understand that the ‘changes’ that will inevitably come if the Communist dictatorship falls may actually be welcomed by many Cubans, proud as they are of their history and independence. And many visitors, once they see the reality of life on a Cuban ration book, accept this, too. Hopefully, what transpires over the coming months and years will prioritise the well-being of the Cuban people.

The reality of life in an isolated state

Cubans have scant access to manufactured goods, no matter how hard they work or how much they earn, as Clarita Derwent, from our partner Cuban Adventures, explains: “That’s the difference between Cuba and most developing countries; you can be in a very poor African nation, but if you have money you can still walk into a shop and buy what you need, even if millions in that country can’t. But in Cuba, because of the blockade, it’s not that they haven’t got things because they haven’t got money; it’s that they haven’t got things in the country at all. Once I was in a town and people were getting really excited about drinking glasses coming into the store. Everyone flocked there to buy them until they’d sold out, as there might not be more for another six months.”

What you can do
If you are visiting, consider taking items to donate – whether to your hosts, hotel staff, in schools, residential homes or hospitals. Many items simply don't exist; and for the brief time that they do they may be obtainable only in sought-after US dollars. The list is endless: pens, pencils, exercise books, toiletries, umbrellas, clothes, shoes, guitar strings, over-the-counter medicines, sticking plasters, sunglasses, reading glasses, kitchenware...

If possible, don't leave all your gifts in Havana. This is where most stock arrives anyway; it's also where most tourists arrive and donate their gifts. The poorest area is the south-east around Santiago de Cuba – items here will be even more warmly received. But in any of the provinces you will find poverty is higher, tourism jobs scarcer, and the need for donated goods greater.

Ask your tour operator for guidance on what to bring. “There are many aspects to going on vacation in Cuba and if people are prepared for these, they will enjoy it more and can also give back to Cuban society,” says Marcel Breedveld of our partner Latin America Journeys Guru. “For example, a girl in Trinidad has diabetes, so a Canadian family got a whole package of support to help her with injections and needles. I always note information down when I get asked for help, and if clients ask me I can let them know the needs of a specific family. So many households need so many things - you can't imagine it.”

Jineteros – hassle on the streets of Cuba

Even those who speak no Spanish will learn the word ‘jinetero’ pretty quickly – the word literally translates as ‘jockey’ but it refers to the people who hassle tourists in Cuba. As well as people asking for donations in the street – pens, toothpaste, soap – the jineteros may want to show you to a friend’s bar, restaurant or casa particular (homestay), where they may get a cut of your fee, or a hefty bill will be run up. Others may ask you to buy formula milk for their baby – you can buy some for $20 in a nearby shop, which will later be returned with the proceeds split between the jinetero and the shopkeeper.

Men and women are targeted equally, and the jineteros may be male, female (jineteras), couples or friends – which makes the scams difficult to discern. To make things harder, Cubans are generally gregarious and curious about the foreign countries they have never been permitted access to, so there are plenty of people who genuinely want to enjoy a drink with you or give you a tour – without a cent in return.

What you can do
This kind of hassle is annoying, but remember that these people are often hustling to survive, not for fun. Havana is the worst place for it – but if you just politely say no, most jineteros will walk away. And if you’re on a pre-booked tour you won’t have any problems.

Be sensitive and open-minded on the subject of politics, particularly as the communist state wobbles. Cubans love to discuss politics and their daily life in a communist state, but the story is not black and white so don't try to impose your point of view. There is a rather 'Big Brother' atmosphere on the streets, with people reluctant to express political views anywhere they could be overheard. Let them be the ones to bring up politics first (and they will) – and be aware that people will be happier to speak more openly in their homes or taxis. Always tip in USD if you can – these are worth so much more to a Cuban than the Cuban peso. Cuba is famous for its culture rather than its countryside – but there are some excellent national parks and Biosphere Reserves. When our vacations visit these places, they help to support their conservation, and they also hire local guides. State guides are trained to a high level on specialist subjects and will also speak at least two languages – be sure to tip them; they’ll be on a state salary. You may notice that Cubans drop a lot of litter, which can be depressing. However, this is more than offset by other aspects of life in Cuba – nothing useful is ever discarded – items are never viewed as disposable; cars, clothes and shoes are repaired until they literally fall to pieces; and there is a relatively low number of cars – with bicycles and horses still very much in use. Additionally, most agriculture is organic, with oxen ploughing the fields.