Things to see & do on Sicily

You can’t walk two paces without tripping over a bit of ancient history in Sicily. The Ancient Greek Theatre of Taormina cracks open below the foothills of Mount Etna. The rock stacks off Catania were said to be thrown by Cyclops chasing away Ulysses. And over in Agrigento, pirates would use the Daz-white ‘Turkish Steps’ cliffs to make their landings. Absolutely everything, it seems, comes with a tale – and Sicilians are more than willing to share a yarn or five.

The Romans arrived in the 3rd century BC, pouring their wealth into villas, palaces and ports. Syracuse became the epicenter – make sure to explore the al fresco Archaeological Park and papyrus-lined Fountain of Arethusa at Ortygia. The Byzantine branch of the Roman Empire swung by in the 6th century, turning Syracuse into their shining HQ. Their influence is island-wide, with churches like Cefalu Cathedral glittering with Byzantine mosaics.

Later, arriving Arabs and Normans shaped cities like Palermo, when North African craftspeople worked with the Norman King William II to create the domes and Byzantine-style mosaics in Monreale Cathedral.

Inland, temperamental geology was just as influential as the ruler of the day. In 1693, an earthquake killed over 100,000 people and tumbled towns in the Noto Valley. Noto and Ragusa were almost completely rebuilt with a 17th century flourish; these days, the whole plateau is an ode to Sicilian baroque. Expect plenty in the way of warm honeyed stone and gloriously OTT doorways carved with roses, scrolls and cherubs.

As is standard in Italy, families are welcomed with open arms (your kids will just have to get used to the cheek-pinching). Book a tailor made tour, and your guide will adapt the activities to the abilities of both little and long legs. Sea kayaking and sailing in Isola Bella Marine Park is a real highlight; great guides will hunt out the turquoise tidal grottos and reveal the best place to snorkel with luminous rainbow wrasse and salpe.

Whatever you choose to do, small group tours are often your best option. Sicilian cycling and walking routes aren’t exactly known for their watertight waymarking. Plus, your guide will know the best swimming spots and family-run vineyards to catch your breath in. Then there’s your luggage – on a guided tour, it’ll be waiting for you at your next hotel after a hard day’s pedalling. All you have to do is remember to pack your swimsuit in your pannier.